The Science of Big Waves

Pre Viewing

1. Waves are formed by the action of the wind blowing across the ocean. First the wind forms ripples. then these form wavelets and finally waves.

2. The extreme power and force they can create, the way the wave is breaking or going to break e.g dumping or rolling and the direction the wave is breaking so they aren't going in to rocks etc.

Questions of Video

1.  Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions.

Energy is transferring in between the water. When the large amount and energy hits the fringe of the reef down below, the only place for the energy to go is up creating a large wave. 

2. Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured?

The waves originate further out in the ocean. Wind speed and duration affect the size and power of the waves. In california the waves are more focused and hit the reef and refract which causes the wave to be larger. The longer the wave length the larger amount of energy. The frequency of waves is decreased therefore the waves that do occur are extremely large.

3. What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed?

Maverick wave is a wave in California, the wave is extremely big compared to the cove next door as of the ocean floor. The wave comes rolling in and hits the tip of the reef and just jumps up extremely fast. The reef however focuses the wave which creates immense power, the rocks slow the wave down as of the wave energy hitting the bottom. The wave is so powerful it shakes the the north american plate.

4. How is energy stored and transferred during wave?

Energy is transferring in between the water. When the large amount and energy hits the fringe of the reef down below, the only place for the energy to go is up creating a large wave. 

5. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.”

To go in quickly, research where you are surfing e.g don't just go out, find out where its breaking and how. Be careful because it is like the wave swallowing you and you will be worrying about surviving. There is nothing you can do once you are off, you just have to go with it.