TRESB Project

1. The project started mainly because of the tweed river and its problems. They dredged the mouth of the tweed river, the river was affecting the beaches. It was a shipping hazard as of the sandbars forming across the river mouth. This was due to the longshore drift which transported much of the sand from Duranbah beach and was being transported to the open river mouth and being deposited there. 


2. They dredged the mouth of the tweed river, therefore the breakwaters would no longer effect the beaches. The dredging process aims to replicate longshore drift. Sand is pumped from where it builds up on the southern side of the Tweed River via a system of pipes, across the Tweed River to one of four outlets where sand is realeased onto the beach. 

3. The project was extremely effective as the beaches went back to their normal size if not bigger. They area's affected are coolangatta beach, greenmount beach, rainbow bay and Duranbah beach. The actual land was obviously affected as they needed to put the pipes in so a lot of the ground was dug up. Where the station is located affected no one as it was uninhabited

7.6 The Tweed River Entrance Sand Bypassing Project

1. It became necessary to extend the Tweed River breakwaters because of the continual sand build up.
2. It would have meant they didn't periodically transport sand down to the Gold Coast beaches to replenish their sand supply, as they didn't have their natural supply of sand.
3. The river became unsafe as it would need continual maintenance which would jeopardise the safety of the river entrance for boats.
4.it was a short term solution because it was continually eroding the sand, and was costing a lot of money to continually transport the sand to the Gold Coast beaches.
5. The project aimed to replicate the process of longshore drift. Sand is pumped from where it sits on the southern side of the Tweed River, pumped through pipes across the Tweed River to one of four outlets where sand is released onto the beach.
6. I think it is a clever organisation, which has effectively used the natural processes of longshore drift to maximise the effectiveness of their organisations aims.
7. In book
8. You can see the continual erosion that has occurred between the 12th of October, 1962 and the 19th of December, 1994.
9.  I think it is approximately 85 metres long.

Coastal Management Vocabulary List

constructive waves- small low-energy waves that deposit sand onto beaches
corrasion- occurs when waves crash over rock shelves and more rock and other material helping to erode the rock shelf away
corrosion- the action of salt on minerals like iron that are contained in rock, weakening the rock an making it more susceptible to erosion
deposition- the depositing of sand and rock particles caused by wind and wave action forming features such as beaches
destructive waves- large waves formed by tropical cyclones and storms that erode material from beaches
erosion- the removal of rock and sand particles as a result of wind and wave action fetch- the distance that wind travels over the ocean to form waves
foredune- the closest dune to the ocean or the first dune in a sand dune system
hydraulic action- where waves enter cracks in rocks, air is compressed by the force of the water causing erosion and forming features such as blow holes
longshore drift- the process, caused by waves hitting the coast at an angle, that is responsible for moving sand along the coast
refraction- the bending of waves around headlands
surf and swash zone- the active part of the coast in terms of erosion and deposition of sand by wave action; the surf zone is immediately adjacent to the coast and the swash zone is at the shore once the waves have broken.
vegetation succession- the natural progression of vegetation from low-lying, salt-tolerant plants on the foredune, through to shrubs and established trees on the hind dunes.
wave height- the vertical distance between the trough and the peak of a wave wavelength- the horizontal distance between wave peaks
7.1
breakwaters- a protective structure of stone or concrete; extends from shore into the water to prevent a beach from washing away 
faecal coliform- a common pollutant in water
silting - Silt is soil or rock derived granular material of a grain size between sand and clay
tidal flushing - action of saltwater entering an estuary twice a day during the high tides
7.2
ground swell - a broad and deep undulation of the ocean
plunging waves - Plunging waves may occur mainly at low tide when the water on sandbanks is shallow, which means there is less water on which the waves can break.
spilling waves - Spilling waves occur when the crest tumbles down the front or face.
surging waves - A surging wave occurs where the sea is relatively deep until into the near-shore zone.
wind swell - waves generated by local winds
7.3
aeolian - A term applied to wind erosion or deposition of surface materials.
spinifex - A grass which grows in large, distinctive clumps or hummocks in the driest areas of central and western Australia.
7.4
dredging - Dredging is an excavation activity or operation usually carried out at least partly underwater, in shallow seas or fresh water areas with the purpose of gathering up bottom sediments and disposing of them at a different location.
erosion-accretion cycle
groynes - Fixed structures extending out from the seawall used to control erosion or promote deposition.
revegetation - is the process of replanting and rebuilding the soil of disturbed land
sea walls - aim to prevent erosion of the coast by providing a barrier which reflects wave energy

7.7
environmental impact study - is an assessment of the possible impact--positive or negative--that a proposed project may have on the environment, together consisting of the natural, social and economic aspects.
impact assessment - is "a process aimed at structuring and supporting the development of policies. It identifies and assesses the problem at stake and the objectives pursued. 
7.8
bitou bush - is an evergreen flowering shrub with glossy round leaves in the Asteraceae
marram grass -  a species of grass that is tolerant of dry, sand dune environments
noxious weed -  A weed specified by law as being especially undesirable, troublesome and difficult to control
7.9
anemometer - a gauge for recording the speed and direction of wind
hygrometer - measuring instrument for measuring the relative humidity of the atmosphere

Big Wave Profile- Punta de Lobos, Chile

About the Wave:
Punta de Lobos located in chile is one of the biggest waves in the world. Some surfers call it the best left break in South America. This wave will often be in surfing magazines. Punta de Lobos has waves that push you as far as 200 yards. During the year all variety's of surfers have a go but when it gets big only advanced surfers are seen. The larger swells tend to break off the furthest rock, where the more experienced surfers will take off. 













Location of the wave:

Punta de Lobos is located in Chile about a three-hour drive from Santiago. It has colder water, colder weather, and plenty of pine trees and wildlife along the coast.

The best time to surf  is in April and March for the advanced but any other standard can surf all year round. It is capable of 20ft waves

The Science of Big Waves

Pre Viewing

1. Waves are formed by the action of the wind blowing across the ocean. First the wind forms ripples. then these form wavelets and finally waves.

2. The extreme power and force they can create, the way the wave is breaking or going to break e.g dumping or rolling and the direction the wave is breaking so they aren't going in to rocks etc.

Questions of Video

1.  Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions.

Energy is transferring in between the water. When the large amount and energy hits the fringe of the reef down below, the only place for the energy to go is up creating a large wave. 

2. Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured?

The waves originate further out in the ocean. Wind speed and duration affect the size and power of the waves. In california the waves are more focused and hit the reef and refract which causes the wave to be larger. The longer the wave length the larger amount of energy. The frequency of waves is decreased therefore the waves that do occur are extremely large.

3. What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed?

Maverick wave is a wave in California, the wave is extremely big compared to the cove next door as of the ocean floor. The wave comes rolling in and hits the tip of the reef and just jumps up extremely fast. The reef however focuses the wave which creates immense power, the rocks slow the wave down as of the wave energy hitting the bottom. The wave is so powerful it shakes the the north american plate.

4. How is energy stored and transferred during wave?

Energy is transferring in between the water. When the large amount and energy hits the fringe of the reef down below, the only place for the energy to go is up creating a large wave. 

5. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.”

To go in quickly, research where you are surfing e.g don't just go out, find out where its breaking and how. Be careful because it is like the wave swallowing you and you will be worrying about surviving. There is nothing you can do once you are off, you just have to go with it.

7.3 Geographical Processes Shaping the Coastal Environment

1. 

7.2 Waves- Water on the move

7. Geographical issues in the coastal Environment

1.    Describe how the settle ment pattern of Australia is related to issues in the coastal  environment?

            More and more people are deciding to move to Australia which creates demand for new housing, along coastlines and other areas
 Why is the sustainable development of the coastline the aim of coastal management strategies?
        As the beaches and coastlines will be severely affected by the developments being built

What trend has been labelled 'sea change'? 
        When people move from large cities to smaller coastal towns and villages where the lifestyle is more relaxed.

Describe one government response to 'sea change'.
        Residential caps

 Select four of the geographical issues facing the coastal environment presented in this unit. For each issue identify the human actions that cause the issue.
        Pollution- people littering, sewage outfalls 
        Introduced plants- brought over from other countries which can harm the environment
        Coastal rivers and lagoons- Dredging
        Tourism and recreation pressures- tourism can create pressure on services and activites such as four wheel driving beaches which can affect the beach and dunes.

             

        What role do geographers play in developing management solutions to issues in coastal environments?
        So that the development if the coastline i sustainable

Find an example that you and/or others feel is an example of inappropriate development. Describe why this is considered inappropriate. Give one way that this type of development can be fixed. *